Kepler Track

For stomping Koopas

Atop Mt. Luxmore

The path to Iris Burn

The plot to poke me foiled by another perfect smile

The Kepler Track was built in 1988 to take some pressure off of the Routeburn and Milford. The start of the track is just a 45 minute lakeside walk from the center of Te Anau, and the track is a friendly loop, meaning no buses to catch at the end to bring us back to civilization. I heard many wonderful things about the walk, and after nearly a week off in Queenstown (population: ice cream), I was more than ready to stretch my legs again.

The bulk of the first day was spent climbing away from Lake Te Anau towards Luxmore Hut, located above the bushline an hour shy of Mt. Luxmore. We were humbled on the track by a speeding and stomping and jolly Australian man. Later, he passed us again, now coming down from the mountain, where he had stopped to drink a few beers before turning around. Some day walk! After reaching the hut, we took a sidetrip to the Luxmore Caves, at times crawling hand and knee, where we found stalactites and stalagmites and other cave decorations. I didn't enjoy the enclosed space, I may have even freaked out a few times, but I think Christina discovered her inner Gollum.

The heart of the Kepler is day two, Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut, a full six hours spent above the bushline. We climbed to the peak of Mt. Luxmore, then through the Forest Burn Saddle and along the ridges and faces of the Kepler Mountains. The spectacular views were constant, and the weather cooperated (if it was still a bit cloudy). We were immersed in the mountains, and each twist revealed new ranges, giving us a full perspective of the incredible land surrounding Te Anau. Nothing in life is perfect, though, and this tramp we traveled alongside about 30 young and raucous Israelis, some of whom mistook the mountain path for their favorite Tel Aviv karaoke bar. The boys of the bunch were also quite taken by Christina, and did not hide their excitement to hear that we weren't married (why the Israeli girls showed no interest in me remains one of life's great mysteries).

The final two days were easy walks through temperate rainforest, following Lake Manapouri and, eventually the Waiau River, which is a popular spot for trout fishing. It might have seemed like a bit of a letdown after the great highs of the first half of the track, but the forest section was a relaxing counterpoint. We spent our final night at Motarau Hut, set against Lake Manapouri, where we swam in the clear and calm water until the sand flies chased us away.

Two things are happening here: I am experiencing much beauty and adventure, and these experiences are affecting me in some way. One of these things is much easier to write about than the other.

The Kepler concludes the portion of this trip that we planned in advance. I think we will now begin volunteering while continuing to tramp until the winter weather forbids it. But what exactly is next? In the words of Indiana Jones: "I don't know. I'm making this up as I go."